DUNFERMLINE mountaineer Matthew Gardiner has not only made it back in one piece from his bid to climb K2, the world's most dangerous peak, but also helped save a life.

It was Matthew's second attempt on the 28,250 ft (8611m) peak and proved more successful in that he made it further up the 'Savage Mountain'.

However, a combination of bad weather and illness scuppered his hopes of making it to the top.

The leaders of the expedition made it higher but they too decided they couldn't make it safely to the summit and turned back.

For Matthew, it was another herculean effort in a country where distances are vast, roads and communications poor and the hazards both on and off the mountains are many.

Matthew (38) said he felt better prepared and nourished this time around and did not lose as much weight even though he still came back about 12 kilos down.

"You see it with everyone. They're like sticks by the end of it," he told the Press.

He decided to curtail his bid for the top after picking up a chest infection which sapped his energy but still made it up to around camp three at 7200 metres and had previously made it up to around 7500 metres on the neighbouring mountain, Broad Peak, where the team prepared.

Even when he decided to call it quits, Matthew still faced an arduous descent and it took him almost eight hours to abseil down to base camp.

Like on his last attempt, the team had been badly hampered by snow and wind which kept them in their tents for days on end and put them behind schedule.

However, for all his adventures on the mountains a major one lay ahead when he returned to base camp.

A cook fell ill and it looked like he may die until Matthew and his colleagues intervened. It is believed the man was suffering High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), a life-threatening condition with a high mortality rate.

Matthew and his team-mates provided oxygen and put him in a gamow bag, which gives the body the feeling it is at a lower altitude.

"At first the man's lips were turning blue but I've never seen such a recovery in a person. Without the treatment he was going to die," said Matthew.

"He recovered but we still had to get him out. He wasn't insured so a helicopter wouldn't come.

"We had about fifteen minutes' notice to get our things together and leave. The man still needed supported and we faced a 120km journey which we managed in three days by walking for up to 14 hours a day in 40 degrees heat.

"The man was very grateful and kept thanking us for what we'd done from him and from his children." The expedition website also paid tribute to the efforts of Matthew and his colleague Dave saying, "Despite the efforts and successes on the mountains, helping this porter will stand as the most important thing our team has done this summer. Good to know that our team had the skills and resources to make a difference and we thank them for all their efforts and sacrifices." As he faced the extremes of the conditions - snow, ice and gales at certain times, intense heat at others - did the former Queen Anne High pupil ever wonder what he was doing there?

"No, I never felt that but by the end of four or five weeks you're ready to get back home to your normal daily life," he admitted.

"You even look forward to being back at work. While the mountains challenge you physically you're ready to get back to something more mentally challenging.

"Before I left here, I felt pretty burnt out at work but now I feel revitalised." Matthew is having second thoughts over whether he would ever go back to K2 but fancies something closer to home for his next expedition.

"I had said that would be my last time but I'm not sure, it's maybe too soon to say.

"However, I think I would probably prefer to do something in the Alps next time on 7000m peaks. The 8000m peaks are pretty brutal, nasty places and it's hard-going." At least in the Alps Matthew would not have to avoid the Taliban and gangs of bandits on the long trek just to get to the base camp.

Matthew kept in touch with his partner, Vicky, regularly on his trip and was welcomed back by his mum and brother when he arrived back in the UK.

He plans a visit home to Dunfermline shortly and through his efforts has raised £1200 for charity. Anyone wishing to make a donation can do so through the website www.justgiving.com/k2bp